Monday, June 29, 2009

The Hardest Thing I've Ever Done - Kings Peak, West Gunsite Peak, One Day

Familiar Territory
I’d been here before, twice actually, first was with a scout group when I was still in high school and then again last summer with my good friend John. I knew the area well both from previous trips and time spent studying maps. Because of this, I expected the area to feel familiar and friendly. It didn’t. This time was different. There was no base camp. There was no tent to crawl back into and sleep. This time the typical three days would be condensed into one.

Kings Peak is the tallest mountain in Utah. Standing at 13, 528 Ft. it’s is a lofty goal for anybody that attempts to climb it. The most direct route to the summit is a 26+ mile round trip starting at the Henry’s Fork trailhead on the northern slopes of the Uinta Mountains. Typically, the route is done as a 2-3 day backpacking trip. Ammon and I planned to do it in one day.

Ammon met me at my apartment at 9:30 Friday night. A huge thunderstorm had just rolled through and I found myself wondering if it was a good idea for us to go. We checked the weather report and some different radar images and decided everything would be clear by the time we got to the trail head. We set of on I-80 toward Evanston, WY, exited at Fort Bridger and soon began winding our way through some small Wyoming towns. After a few miles of dirt roads, we arrived at the Henry’s Fork trail head. It was now 12:3o AM. We made some last minute gear checks, strapped on our packs and set out on our long trek towards Kings Peak in the dark. 17 hours later we would be back…


Into the Dark
Moving quickly through the dark, we covered the first several miles without breaking a sweat. Our headlamps lit the way as we moved through the trees. After a short break to shed some layers, we realized that Ammon’s headlamp was slowly dying. It wouldn’t be long before we were down to one light. No big deal, we still had mine and the first light of dawn was only about three hours away. We continued along, slightly slower now, with me out in front lighting our way through the forest. After a while, the forest began to thin and we found ourselves entering into the upper section of the Henry’s Fork Basin. We stopped, turned off the headlamp, and were plunged into darkness. There was no moon, only the light from the thousands of stars overhead. Ahead of us, we could barely make out the silhouette of Kings Peak. Above us, the dusty cloud of the Milky Way spread across the sky. Who knew a view in the dark could be so incredible? We continued on.

We soon came to Dollar Lake, the place I’d camped when I’d come here years earlier with the scouts. I laughed to myself and thought, “Who would have ever guessed I’d be up here again, wandering around in the dark in the middle of the night?” We couldn’t stop though; we had bigger goals in mind. We worked our way towards Gunsite Pass and reached its base just as the first rays of morning began reaching across the sky. We’d made good time so far, but we still had a long way to go.



Gunsite Pass
We climbed Gunsite Pass and took a break behind a large pile of rocks to shield us from the wind. The temperature was only about 35-40 degrees and the harsh wind of the pass cut right through you. We added a layer, took out our ice axes and began moving again. It was too cold to stop. We began climbing the snowy slopes to the west of Gunsite pass and soon Ammon was well out in front of me. The snow was rock solid and in some areas, covered in ice from the previous day’s thaw. We moved slowly and carefully so as not to slip on the treacherous slopes; each step, relying on our Ice axes for grip and support.



West Gunsite Peak, 13,103
Ammon had moved over the ridge and out of my sight for a few minutes. As I came over the ridgeline, I saw him working his way to the top of West Gunsite Peak. I cursed out loud at him and yelled up, “Is one 13er not enough for you for one day?” Really though, I was proud of his ambition and couldn’t really blame him for adding another summit to our planned activities for the day. He tagged the summit and worked his way back down to me. In an effort to not be outdone, I told him I was climbing West Gunsite as well, and that I would catch up to him as soon as I could. He agreed and continued on to the base of Kings Peak. I kept climbing, reached the top of West Gunsite Peak and then began contouring around the mountain to meet up with Ammon. The sun had yet to begin melting the snow so each step had to be carefully placed. In hindsight, I should have put on my crampons, but there wasn’t really a place to stop and do so. After some carful maneuvering, I made my way back down to Ammon at the Base of Kings Peak.


Kings Peak 13,528
We ate some food, drank some water and talked about what our next move was going to be. We decided that crampons were necessary and put them on. After a short break, we were moving again. The snow was getting soft in the sun and my legs were getting tired. Thoughts of quitting began to enter my mind, and I began to rationalize that quitting now wasn’t that bad of an idea. I told Ammon to go ahead without me and I sat down to catch my breath. I decided that failing now wasn’t an option. I’d come so far already and the summit was so close. I kept telling myself that the mind tries to quit long before the body needs to and that I would drag myself to the top if I had to. Every step proved more difficult than the previous and I kept saying out load to myself, “You’re not stopping, don’t be weak, you can do it, you’re not stopping…”

Out of sheer will power, I made it to the summit of Kings Peak, our second summit of the day. Ammon had been there for quite some time already and, as always, had been patiently waiting for me. I’ve summited a lot of mountains, but this one felt the sweetest. The amount of effort it took to get there, the will power I somehow mustered… it was unbelievable. We took some time enjoying the views, and then came to the realization that our trek was only half over. We still had roughly 13 miles to go before we could call the trip a success. We started back down…


The Long Road Home
Arriving back at the saddle between Kings Peak and West Gunsite Peak, we readied ourselves for a quick descent back into Henry’s Fork Basin. We had decided earlier that instead of going back the way we’d come, we would glissade 1,000 ft. down the snow chute and back into the Henry’s Fork Basin. We took off our crampons, readied our ice axes and down we went. The glissade was steep and fast. In a matter of a few minutes we were back on the valley floor, a thousand feet below where we were just moments before. We decided to eat lunch and take a longer break so that we could travel as fast as possible back to the car.

Creatures in the Forest
I don’t remember a lot of what happened on the way back to the car. A combination of being awake for nearly 30 hours and exhaustion from climbing for such a long time had begun to take its toll. We worked our way across the basin and stopped at Dollar Lake to filter some water. As we moved down the trail, I began to drift in and out of self awareness and started seeing things that weren’t real. Hikers, horses, signs, and even a tiger…I really needed to sleep.

Finally, 17 hours after we’d started, we walked up to the car. 100% exhausted. I said I was done climbing and that I never wanted to do anything like that again. We drank some fresh water and some energy drinks and feeling a little refreshed, started off for home. As we drove back toward Salt Lake, we started making plans for the next trip. I guess the pain just doesn’t last.

5 comments:

Sarah Atwood said...

You are so amazing! I know I heard all about your trip when you got home Saturday, but I guess it didn't really register HOW incredible it was! You are WAY tougher than I am :)

Ammon said...

Dude, you should put this on Summitpost. It's very well written.

Jason said...

I agree. Put it up on SP. Good write up.

Angela said...

You're crazy! Crazy! Crazy! Crazy! Well at least you had food...even if your dogs didn't. But we definitely enjoyed their company-- they seemed to be super comfy at our house (even with no beds :) and cuddled up just fine with us. We'll take 'em again if you do something this nutty a 2nd time. I'm glad you haven't turned my husband this nuts....yet

Scottkids said...

Sounds like a Blast! Minus the cold weather!